Makeup Artists' Choice · makeupartistschoice.com
Chemical Peel
Instruction Guide
Instruction Guide
Glycolic 30–70%
Lactic 55–65%
Mandelic 25–40%
TCA 12.5–30%
Jessner's
PhytX Overnight
Fade Peel
5 Acid Body
8% BHA Serum
Always patch test 24–48 hrs before full application
Always use SPF 30+ after any peel
Never apply to inflamed or broken skin
Keep out of reach of children
Applies to all peels
Universal Pre-Peel
Protocol
Protocol
Read these guidelines before using any peel in the MUAC line. These steps apply universally regardless of acid type or strength.
01
Stop Actives
Discontinue retinoids, benzoyl peroxide, acne medications, granular scrubs, and exfoliating brushes for at least 24 hours. For TCA, stop all acids 48 hours prior.
02
Patch Test
Apply a small amount to a quarter-sized area on the jawline. Rinse per product instructions. Wait 24–48 hours to confirm no adverse reaction.
03
Cleanse
Wash with a non-acid, non-exfoliating cleanser. MUAC Green Tea Pomegranate Cleanser recommended. Rinse thoroughly. Pat completely dry.
04
pH Prep
Dispense onto a cotton pad and wipe the face to remove residual oils and debris. Skip if skin is dry or sensitive; substitute Witch Hazel if preferred.
05
Apply Peel
Apply starting at the forehead and working down the face. Use thin, even layers. Do not rub vigorously. Set an accurate timer immediately.
06
Rinse / Neutralize
AHA/BHA peels: rinse with cool-to-lukewarm water. TCA peels: use MUAC Post Peel Neutralizer. PhytX: leave on — do not rinse.
07
Post-Peel Care
Moisturize with a non-acid, non-retinoid moisturizer. Apply SPF 30+ before any sun exposure. Do not pick, scratch, or peel skin manually.
Contraindications & Cautions
- Never apply to inflamed, sunburned, broken, or irritated skin.
- Avoid contact with eyes, lips, and mucous membranes. If contact occurs, flush immediately with cool water.
- If burning or stinging is excessive, remove product immediately with cool water.
- Always use SPF 30+ for at least one week post-peel — freshly treated skin is photosensitive.
- Do not use manual exfoliators within 24 hours before or after any peel.
- Store all chemical peels in a cool, dry place. Shelf life: 12–18 months.
- Misuse of chemical peels can cause burns or injury. Follow all directions exactly as written.
Alpha-Hydroxy Acid · Gold Standard Exfoliant
Glycolic Acid Peels
The gold standard AHA and smallest acid molecule. Penetrates deeply to exfoliate, stimulate collagen, and fade pigmentation. Start at the lowest strength; move up only after 6–8 successful applications.
30% Pre-Mixed
40% Pre-Mixed
50% Pre-Mixed
70% Adjustable Kit
1
Cleanse
Use Green Tea Pomegranate Cleanser. Rinse well. Pat completely dry before proceeding.
2
pH Prep
Apply pH Prep Solution to a cotton pad; wipe face to degrease skin thoroughly.
3
Apply
Apply peeling serum from forehead downward in a thin, even layer. Do not rub in.
4
Time
First application: 30 seconds to 1 minute. Increase time as tolerance builds. Maximum: 10–12 minutes. Skin may tingle and turn slightly pink — this is normal.
5
Rinse
Rinse thoroughly with cool water. Splash multiple times to ensure complete removal.
6
Moisturize + SPF
Apply a non-acid moisturizer (Green Tea/Pomegranate or Argan Oil). Apply SPF 30+ before any sun exposure.
First Use
30 sec – 1 min
Maximum
10–12 min
Frequency
Weekly × 8–10 wks
Estheticians recommend 6–8 treatments at 1–2 week intervals.
70% Adjustable Kit — Mixing Notes
- Add Acid Reducer drops to the mixing bowl first, then add glycolic acid drops. Mix together. Never reuse solution or pour back into bottles.
- Begin with the 20% recipe on first use. Non-buffered — 20% recipe equals approximately 40% buffered.
- Soap (sodium lauryl/laureth sulfate) can neutralize glycolic acid. Use a gentle non-SLS cleanser 24 hours before your peel.
- Clean dropper with water; let dry completely before returning to bottle.
Cautions
- Not recommended for inflamed or highly sensitive skin without testing at lowest strength first.
- No significant downtime at lower strengths; some flaking possible at 50%+.
Alpha-Hydroxy Acid · Gentle · Hydrating
Lactic Acid Peels
A naturally occurring AHA and human metabolite — one of the gentlest acids with the lowest allergy risk. Ideal for sensitive, dry, or mature skin. No visible downtime — skin gently sloughs rather than visibly peels.
55% — Beginner / Sensitive
65% — Experienced Users
1
Patch Test
Test near jawline. Wait 48–72 hours before full application.
2
Cleanse
Wash with non-acid cleanser. Rinse well. Pat completely dry.
3
pH Prep
Wipe face with pH Prep Solution on a cotton pad.
4
Apply
Apply serum from forehead downward in a thin, even layer. Do not rub.
5
Time
First use: 1–3 minutes. Build up to 5–10 minutes as tolerance allows.
6
Rinse
Rinse thoroughly with cool water. Apply non-acid moisturizer.
7
SPF
Apply SPF 30+ before going outside. Maintain for at least one week post-peel.
First Use
1–3 min
Maximum
5–10 min
Frequency
Weekly × 8–10 wks
Contains licorice extract for additional brightening. Great for mature skin — doubles as a humectant.
Notes
- Because lactic acid is naturally occurring in the body, allergic reactions are rare.
- 55% is ideal for beginners and sensitive skin. 65% for more experienced users.
- No visible flaking at lower times — but exfoliation is actively occurring.
Alpha-Hydroxy Acid · Gentle · Antimicrobial
Mandelic Acid Peels
Derived from bitter almonds. Larger molecular size means slower, gentler penetration — less irritation, ideal for sensitive skin and darker skin tones. Has antimicrobial properties making it excellent for acne. Note: watery consistency, not a serum.
25% — Beginner
40% — Advanced (after 6–8 uses of 25%)
1
Cleanse
Use Green Tea Pomegranate Cleanser. Pat completely dry.
2
pH Prep
Apply pH Prep Solution. Omit if skin is very dry or sensitive.
3
Apply
Dip a Q-tip into the bottle, or tip bottle onto gauze pad to apply. Apply from forehead down in thin, even layers. Do not massage in.
4
Time
25%: Begin with 3–5 minutes first use. Build to 10 minutes maximum.
40%: 5–10 minutes. Do not exceed 10 minutes.
40%: 5–10 minutes. Do not exceed 10 minutes.
5
Rinse
Rinse thoroughly with cool water. Apply non-acid moisturizer.
6
Moisturize + SPF
Non-acid moisturizer immediately post-rinse. SPF 30+ before sun exposure. Expect light flaking 1–2 days post-peel (40%, especially around mouth/nasal area) — this is normal.
25% First Use
3–5 min
40% Range
5–10 min
Frequency
Weekly × 8–10 wks
Excellent for darker skin tones — will not cause unwanted lightening.
Notes
- Mandelic penetrates more slowly than glycolic or lactic — minimal stinging is expected and normal.
- Antimicrobial properties make this ideal for acne-prone and cystic acne skin.
- Do NOT use the 40% unless you have successfully used the 25% peel for at least 6–8 applications.
AHA + BHA Combination · Acne + Pigmentation
Mandelic / Salicylic
Combination Peel
Combination Peel
An alpha/beta combination peel: mandelic acid (AHA) for gentle exfoliation and brightening, plus salicylic acid (BHA) for deep pore cleansing and acne control. Ideal for acne, PIH, hyperpigmentation, and congested skin.
15% Mandelic / 15% Salicylic
1
Patch Test
Test on jawline 24–48 hours before full application.
2
Cleanse
Use non-acid cleanser. Pat completely dry.
3
pH Prep
Apply pH Prep Solution via cotton pad. Skip if skin is dry or sensitive.
4
Apply
Begin at forehead, work downward. Apply thin, even layers — do not rub in.
5
Time
First use: 3–5 minutes. Work up to 5–10 minutes maximum.
6
Rinse
Rinse thoroughly with warm-to-cool water. Pat dry.
7
Moisturize + SPF
Apply non-acid moisturizer. Apply SPF 30+ before sun exposure.
First Use
3–5 min
Maximum
10 min
Frequency
Weekly × 8–10 wks
Cautions
- Contains salicylic acid (aspirin family) — do NOT use if allergic to aspirin.
- Not recommended for very dry or extremely sensitive skin without testing first.
Medium-Depth Peel · Most Advanced
TCA Peels
Trichloroacetic acid causes controlled protein denaturation and significant collagen remodeling. The most advanced peels in the MUAC line. Always start at 12.5% if new to TCA. Results last several months.
12.5%
15%
18%
30% Adjustable
You Will Need to Provide
- Petroleum jelly (Vaseline)
- Antibiotic ointment (Bacitracin or Neosporin)
- Anti-itch cream (Cortaid or Lanacaine)
- Accurate kitchen timer · Q-tips, cotton pads, or gauze pads
Pre-Peel — 48 Hours Before
1
Stop All Actives
Discontinue ALL acid-based products, retinoids, acne products, granular exfoliants, and drying agents 48 hours before peel. Do not resume for 2 weeks post-peel.
2
Optional Priming
Use glycolic, lactic, or mandelic acid peels once per week for 1–2 weeks before TCA for better results. Do NOT use any acid on the same day.
3
For Hyperpigmentation
Use 40% Lactic Peel weekly + Fade Serum twice daily for 2–3 weeks before TCA application.
Peel Day — Application Protocol
1
Patch Test
Always patch test on the jawline. Wait 48 hours. Do not proceed without a successful patch test.
2
Cleanse Gently
Wash with Green Tea Pomegranate Cleansing Gel using fingertips only — no scrubs or abrasive cloths. Rinse well. Blot completely dry.
3
Protect Sensitive Areas
Apply a thin layer of petroleum jelly to eyebrows, hairline, nostrils, and lips.
4
Apply Peel
Using Q-tip, cotton pad, or gauze pad, apply one thin, even coat. Start with lowest available strength. Set timer immediately.
5
Monitor Carefully
Watch for frosting (whitening of skin). Mild redness is normal. Significant frosting = stop and neutralize immediately.
6
Time
12.5%: 1–3 minutes to start, build over sessions. 30% Adjustable: Begin at 10% recipe; increase incrementally over sessions.
7
Neutralize
Cleanse with Green Tea Pomegranate Gel + tepid water using fingertips. Rinse thoroughly. Blot dry gently. Apply antibiotic ointment.
Post-Peel Care — Days 1–10
Days 1–3
Apply antibiotic ointment (Bacitracin/Neosporin) regularly. Skin may appear red or tan — completely normal.
Days 3–4
Visible peeling begins. Do not pick or scratch — this can cause permanent scarring.
Days 4–8
Continued peeling. If itching develops, switch to anti-itch cream (Cortaid/Lanacaine).
Day 10
Assess full results. If discoloration appears, lightly massage with Micro Polish once daily until resolved.
Sleep
Use a soft pillowcase. Avoid makeup until skin has fully healed. SPF 30+ only.
Series
2–3 peels
Spacing
2–3 weeks apart
Between Series
3–6 months
30% Max
3 apps / series
Contraindications
- DO NOT use if currently on Accutane or within 24 months of stopping Accutane.
- Darker skin tones: do NOT use TCA above 15% — darkening of skin may occur.
- Do not use if you have herpes simplex, are pregnant, are lactating, tend to keloid, or are undergoing chemotherapy/radiation.
- 30% Adjustable: for experienced TCA users only. Never use 30% on skin untested by TCA previously.
- Eye area: use 12.5% TCA only, with a fine Q-tip, for targeted crow's feet treatment.
Classic Combination Peel · Layered Application
Jessner's Peel
A classic combination peel in an alcohol base. Ideal for cystic acne, back acne, oily/acneic skin, and sun-damaged skin. Typically layered until frosting appears. Expect visible peeling for 6–10 days. Will sting significantly during application.
14% Lactic
14% Salicylic
14% Resorcinol
1
Cleanse
Wash with non-acid cleanser. Rinse well. Pat completely dry.
2
Apply Layer 1
Dispense Jessner solution onto a cotton or gauze pad. Apply one even layer to the face. Stinging will occur — this is expected.
3
Wait 2 Minutes
Observe skin. If no significant redness or frosting, proceed to a second layer.
4
Additional Layers
Apply each subsequent layer and wait 2 minutes between each. Most clients use 2–3 layers. Maximum 5 layers. STOP immediately if frosting or significant redness develops.
5
Neutralize
Neutralize with a cool water wash using Green Tea Pomegranate Cleanser. Do not leave Jessner on skin indefinitely.
6
Post-Peel
Allow skin to dry for 1–2 hours. Apply Argan Oil for moisture and healing. Continue using Green Tea Cleanser and Argan Oil until peeling is complete.
Typical Layers
2–3
Maximum
5 layers
Peeling Period
Days 3–10
Tan/reddish coloration is normal for several days post-peel.
Contraindications
- Do NOT use if allergic to aspirin products (contains salicylic acid).
- Do NOT use if allergic to milk products (contains lactic acid).
- Do NOT use if you have herpes simplex, eczema, seborrheic dermatitis, or other drying skin conditions.
- Do NOT use on keloids or hypertrophic scars.
- Do NOT use if you have recently had cryotherapy on warts or moles, or if HIV positive.
- The alcohol base makes this a drying peel — moisturize diligently post-peel.
Leave-On · No Rinse · Overnight
PhytX Overnight Peel
A unique superficial peel using phytic acid (rice-derived) plus mandelic, glycolic, and lactic acids. Unlike other peels, the PhytX is NOT rinsed off — it self-neutralizes. Apply at night and wake up to rejuvenated skin.
Phytic
Mandelic
Glycolic
Lactic
1
Patch Test
Apply to jawline 24 hours before full application. Confirm no adverse reaction.
2
Prep Skin
Discontinue all acids, retinoids, benzoyl peroxide, vitamin C, witch hazel, and exfoliating products. Use only basic cleansing and moisturizing for 24 hours prior.
3
Cleanse
Use Green Tea Pomegranate Cleanser. Pat skin completely dry. Do not apply to damp skin.
4
Apply
Dispense a small amount onto a cotton pad or ball. Begin at the forehead and work down in an even application.
5
Wait — Do Not Massage
Wait 15 minutes for serum to fully absorb. Do NOT massage in — allow penetration to occur naturally. You will feel a stinging sensation. Let it subside on its own.
6
Moisturize
Apply the Green Tea Moisturizer (included with kit) over the serum.
7
Sleep
Leave on overnight. Do not rinse. The formula self-neutralizes as you sleep.
8
Morning After
Wake up to rejuvenated skin. Apply SPF 30+ before going outdoors.
9
Next Day
Avoid all acids, retinoids, benzoyl peroxide, and drying products for at least 24 hours after application.
Absorption Wait
15 min
Rinse?
Never
Frequency
1–2× per week
No significant downtime — skin appears refreshed by morning. Can be used weekly as a maintenance treatment.
Cautions
- Do NOT use if cancer is present in the treatment area — phytic acid promotes cell proliferation.
- Do NOT use on areas with psoriasis.
- If using acid-only option (no kit), use only basic non-active cleanser and moisturizer — no acids, retinoids, Vitamin C, witch hazel, or exfoliating products.
Brightening · Pigmentation Correction
Fade Peel
A potent brightening peel formulated to fade acne marks, age spots, melasma, and sun-damaged skin. Combines four acids with bearberry and licorice extracts for maximum pigmentation correction. Not recommended for beginners with sensitive skin — try the Fade Serum first.
Glycolic
Lactic
Kojic
Malic
+ Bearberry & Licorice
1
Patch Test
Test on jawline 24–48 hours before full application. Especially important for sensitive skin.
2
Pre-Peel Prep
For best results, use Fade Serum once or twice daily for several weeks before starting weekly Fade Peel applications. Do not use Fade Serum on the day of a peel.
3
Cleanse
Wash with non-acid cleanser (Green Tea Pomegranate recommended). Pat dry.
4
pH Prep
Apply pH Prep Solution on cotton pad. Wipe face. Allow to dry.
5
Apply
Apply peeling serum from forehead downward. Thin, even layer. Do not rub.
6
Time
Begin with 2–3 minutes on first use. Build up to 5–10 minutes as tolerated.
7
Rinse
Rinse thoroughly with cool water multiple times. Pat dry.
8
Moisturize + SPF
Apply non-acid moisturizer. Apply SPF 30+ before any sun exposure.
9
Post-Peel Serum
Resume Fade Serum twice daily after peeling to continue fading results.
First Use
2–3 min
Maximum
10 min
Frequency
Weekly × 8–10 wks
Sun protection is especially critical — any UV exposure can re-trigger pigmentation. Sensitive skin: begin with Fade Serum only for 2–4 weeks before attempting the peel.
Full-Body · Multi-Acid · pH 2.5
5 Acid Body Peel
A full-body exfoliation treatment at pH 2.5. Rejuvenates legs, arms, torso, chest, neck, back, and hands. Total acid content: 33%. Excellent for keratosis pilaris, crepe-paper skin, ingrown hair marks, and body acne.
Lactic
Glycolic
Mandelic
Citric
Salicylic 1%
1
Cleanse Body
Shower and cleanse body with a non-acid body wash before application. Pat skin completely dry.
2
Apply
Apply serum to clean, dry skin: legs, arms, torso, chest, neck, back, and hands. Do not apply near genital or rectal areas.
3
Time
Leave on skin for 10 minutes. Set a timer.
4
Rinse
Step into the shower and rinse thoroughly. Pat skin dry.
5
Moisturize + SPF
Apply a non-acid body moisturizer. Apply SPF 30+ to all exposed areas.
Leave-On Time
10 min
Frequency
1–2× per week
Cautions
- Contains salicylic acid (aspirin family) — do NOT use if allergic to aspirin.
- Do NOT apply near the genital or rectal area.
- Always use SPF 30+ on treated areas before sun exposure.
Beta-Hydroxy Acid · pH 2.3 · Professional Strength
8% Beta Hydroxy
Serum
Serum
A professional-strength salicylic acid (BHA) serum for oily, acne-prone skin. Penetrates pores to dissolve sebum and exfoliate from within. Can be used alone 3–4 times per week or as a pre-step before lactic or glycolic peels.
8% Salicylic Acid · pH 2.3
1
Cleanse
Wash with non-acid cleanser. Pat dry.
2
Apply
Apply serum to clean, dry face or target areas using a cotton pad or fingertips. Apply an even, thin layer. Do not massage aggressively.
3
Time
Leave on 3–5 minutes. Build time as tolerance develops. Maximum: 10 minutes.
4
Rinse
Rinse thoroughly. This is NOT a leave-on product. Remove completely.
5
Moisturize + SPF
Apply a non-acid, oil-free moisturizer. Apply SPF 30+ before sun exposure.
Leave-On Time
3–5 min
Maximum
10 min
Frequency
3–4× per week
Excellent for blackhead control, whiteheads, and deeply embedded sebum. May also be used on the back and chest for body acne.
Cautions
- Contains salicylic acid — do NOT use if allergic to aspirin products.
- At pH 2.3, this serum is highly active — always follow application time instructions exactly.
Disclaimer
This guide is intended for client education purposes only. Information is compiled from Makeup Artists' Choice (makeupartistschoice.com) product instructions. It does not constitute medical or dermatological advice. Always patch test new products. Clients with known allergies or skin conditions should consult a qualified physician before use. For external use only. Keep out of reach of children. © 2026 Makeup Artists' Choice, Inc.
